Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
